Showing posts with label Sài Gòn. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sài Gòn. Show all posts
Monday, 7 April 2014
Friday, 4 April 2014
SaiGon in the past
SaiGon in the past
Wednesday, 2 April 2014
Ben Thanh is One of the World's Best Food Markets: USA Today
American newspaper, USA Today, just published their list of the "Best food markets around the world" in which Saigon's own Ben Thanh Market ranked 15th. Along with fake DVDs and tourist nik naks, the market has some pretty awesome (and hot) food stands at its center. We've eaten at a few of them and yeah, they're delicious.
Since Ben Thanh is a decidedly tourist market, we wonder if there are other markets (Binh Tay?) in the city that have even better food but get less attention.
Here's what USA Today had to say about Ben Thanh:
"Ben Thanh Market, a destination for many tourists, is one of the oldest surviving buildings in the area. Located in a lively area of the city, visitors can stop by the market to enjoy textiles, souvenirs, handicrafts, and of course, local cuisine. Many of the vendors are cooking up fresh food that's made to order. Visitors stop here for a "real Vietnamese meal," like entire fish that are deep-fried. Many stalls also sell Vietnamese prepared beverages, like smoothies and iced coffee. In the evening, you can visit the market and sit at a number of sidewalk temporary restaurants serving local dishes like pho (Vietnamese noodle soup) and banh canh cua (crab noodle soup)."
Do you agree with their assessment?
Sunday, 30 March 2014
Saigon Street Food Gems: Chuối Chiên
Fried food gets a bad rap in my view. People say that oil is not good for you, so frying makes food unhealthy for us. But the thing is, it’s usually only fried once. One time. And one’s a very small number really. In fact, so small that if fried food was fried any less, it wouldn’t be fried at all. It would be salad.
So there we have it. Fried food – virtually salad. And when that food is fruit, well, I don’t think you can eat any healthier, can you? Exactly. Which is why one my favourite street snacks is chuối chiên (banana fritter).
You can find chuối chiên all over town – look out for street-side trolleys with smoke rising from a large wok of sizzling oil. In my experience, in addition to banana fritters, the vendors will offer bánh cay (nuggets of spicy polenta-style rice cakes) and khoai lang chiên (fried sweet potato in batter). All of which are extremely morish coming from the right stall.
This particular vendor in Phú Nhuận is a stand out though for the quality of the chuối chiên. She takes two small bananas, squashes them flat together, dunks them in the batter and fries the fritter until it’s three-quarters done and then – and this is the pièce de rsistance – she dunks it the batter again, and back in to the fryer. Double batter! Twice fried!
Yes, yes, I was saying that fried food is healthy because it’s only fried the once. Remember though that you’re eating not one but two bananas – that’s 83% of your potassium RDA right there. Possibly.
I should perhaps point out that I’m not a qualified nutritionalist in the traditional sense.
Open: lunchtime to early evening.
Price: 6,000vnd each.
159 Hoàng Văn Thụ, Phú Nhuận (opp junction with Hố Văn Huê)
Hanoi vs HCMC
Hanoi vs HCMC
Apologies for the lack of updates, but I've been kind of busy...
There will be a post all about that in good time, I promise. Please enjoy this column previously published in AsiaLIFE HCMC until normal transmission resumes:
I’ll let you in on a secret: I do not live in Saigon. I live in Hanoi. I’m here right now. If you hold this column to your ear, you’ll hear the gentle sound of pure Hanoi water lapping against the shores of one of our many (countless!) tranquil lakes in the crisp autumn breeze; if you take a great big sniff of the page, you’ll inhale the unmistakable scent of pure old world charm. You’re smelling it now, aren’t you? I know you are, because I can feel your jealousy from 1760 kilometres away.
I have experienced inter-city rivalries before. I used to live in Sydney, which invests a great deal of effort into being better than Melbourne (not that it has to, because it’s better without even trying) but the competition between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City is off the scale. This is completely understandable from the Vietnamese point of view, given the historical enmity between north and south, but what’s remarkable is how the expat community seems to feel just as strongly about it.
I know that I do. In fact, I would probably argue more strongly on behalf of Hanoi in the face of a Saigonese claim of being-more-awesome than I would for Sydney against Melbourne. And there is absolutely no logical explanation for this. The reason I live in Hanoi and not Ho Chi Minh City is random chance, and the reason I prefer Hanoi is because I happen to live here, and the reason I live here is random chance. It’s an argument as circular as the glistening shell of Hanoi’s legendary turtle. Incidentally, Saigon has no legendary turtles. Just saying.
Any time a Hanoi expat returns from a trip to Saigon, they must report back to their fellow Hanoians on what they did there. They must say that it was “fun for a weekend”, optionally noting that the nightlife and food is better, but immediately adding the essential and emphatic qualification: “I wouldn’t want to live there though”. The Hanoians must then all shake their heads, brows furrowed, as they imagine the plight of the poor souls down south who do have to live there. Terrible business!
The Hanoians must then rally the troops and deploy a tactical defensive move whereby they recap all of Saigon’s deficiencies compared to Hanoi, usually gleaned from a couple of brief jaunts down south. These must include, but are not limited to:
Too many traffic jams
Lack of seasons
Too many tall buildings
Too many beggars
Lack of charm/character/quaintness
Roads too wide
No lakes
Iced coffee is too sweet
Can’t understand (superior) Hanoi accent
Trees too tall
Too much luxury brand-name shopping
City is too big
Expats all work in the private sector
Weird herbs in the pho
Too much construction
Has two names
Not Hanoi
The Hanoians will then sit back, pleased with themselves for having irrefutably proven that the city they arbitrarily chose to make their home is Better Than The Other One They Could Have Arbitrarily Chosen.
But I’m sure that Saigon expats would never engage in this kind of nonsense about Hanoi. I mean, there’s not really much point when it’s a foregone conclusion who’ll come out on top, right?
Cho Lon Market ~ SaiGon
Cho Lon Market ~ SaiGon
Cho Lon is located at Tran Hung Dao Street, District 5, Ho Chi Minh City.Different name is Binh Tay Market.In 1788, a group of Chinese from Pho and My Tho Islands came to Ben Nghe River Dike and founded a market which developed into the existent Cholon Market, offering a wide array of products. This is Vietnam’s Chinatown market. It is an attractive site for visitors to observe that lively atmosphere.It remains home to more than 500,000 people, many of whom are of Chinese origin. The area and its side-streets and markets provide an interesting glimpse of Sino-Vietnamese life, as the Vietnamese Chinese strive to retain there cultural traditions and language. In addition to temples, traditional apothecaries, fortune tellers and the like, some excellent Chinese food is available in Cho Lon.A visit to Ho Chi Minh City's Cho Lon Market reveals the city at its most vibrant, colourful and fun.This mighty market seems to go on for miles, crammed with every possible kind of fruit, vegetable, nut, fish, meat, cigarette, beer and so on. There are cloth shops with every type of silk in every colour and numerous types of cotton, wool and even tweed!Fabric shopping in Ho Chi Minh City is a serious treat. Give yourself at least an afternoon, if not an entire day, so you can take your time, stop for cold drinks and snacks regularly and avoid becoming hot and bothered!The variety of goods here is positively astounding and will give you uncanny glimpses into modern Vietnamese life. Friendly bargaining should you 20% to 40%, but don't take it too seriously - Vietnamese people very rarely get angry in public and they feel extremely embarrassed if you do.
Whenever Chợ Lớn (or Cholon in some documents) is referred to, everyone may immediately think of a Cholon – China Town inside Ho Chi Minh City. It is the name of the Chinese district in Ho Chi Minh City (or Saigon), the largest Chinatown district in Vietnam. It lies at the West bank of the Saigon River, Tran Hung Dao Boulevard, comprising several markets, in which Binh Tay Market is the central one. Today, Cholon has become part and parcel of every itinerary to this significant city. Cholon now covers a vast area from the residential quarters in Districts 5 and 10 to the vicinity of Districts 6 & 11. The Hoa people living there still preserve their age-old cultural, architectural, and religious values. The classical beauty of their architectural style finds expressions in rows of tile-roofed houses, which seem to be caught forever in a brownish gray color.History
History
Chợ Lớn literally means "big" (lớn) "market" (chợ). In 1778, the Hoa (Chinese minority of Vietnam) living in Bien Hoa had to take refuge in what is now Cholon because they were retaliated against by the Tay Son forces for their support of the Nguyen lords. In 1782, they were again massacred by the Tay Son and had to rebuild. They built high embankments against the flows of the river, and called their new settlement Tai-Ngon (meaning "embankment" in Cantonese).Incorporated in 1879 as a city which was 11 kilometers from Saigon, it had expanded and became coterminous with Saigon by the 1930s. On April 27th, 1931, the two cities were merged to form Saigon-Cholon by the French colonial government. By 1956, the name Cholon was dropped from the city name. These days, Cholon attracts a number of tourists, especially those from Mainland China and Taiwan. Aso, it is known as a scenario of Marguerite Duras's autobiographical novel The Lover (1984), where the young French girl fell in love for the first time with her Chinese lover.
Daily life
During daylight, Cholon is bustling with buyers and sellers trading goods. Binh Tay Market, one of the most important markets of Ho Chi Minh City, is located inside Cholon. It can be said that nothing is not sold here. Three or four-star hotels, restaurants, including Aquatria, Dong Khanh, Bat Dat, Ngoc Lan Dinh, Soai Kinh Lam, Ai Hue, Thien Hong, and A Dong, the fairly popular names in Sai Gon. Tourists getting around this famous market town mostly can find here anything they may think in mind!
When night falls
In the evening, Cholon seems to rejuvernate. From distance, one can see neon signs of various sizes, shapes, and colours. Tourists flock into this area not only for purchasing goods but tasting the gastronomy of the Hoa as well.
In this lively area, visitors can enjoy mouth-watering dishes, such as dumplings, Duong Chau fried rice, Tu Xuyen tofu, and so forth.
The majority of tourists to Sai Gon and Cholon are lured by this vast goods-covering market town, glistening when night lights are turned on. This is the panaromic picture of Saigon-Cholon, please come and explore!
Friday, 28 March 2014
Saigoneer Reviews: Nhan Quan Sushi
Ever since I moved to Saigon I've been on a quest to find the city's best sushi joints. After experiencing the fast-foodesque quality of Sushi Bar and Tokyo deli, I knew there had to be better options out there, especially given the sizable Japanese businessman community in the city.
After lots of trial and error I have been able to identify some worthwhile sushi joints, one of which I tried last night - Nhan Quan Sushi, just across from the Bitexco Tower.The first floor of the restaurant features a ubiquitous, brightly-lit sushi bar and staff yelling typical Japanese greetings. We were led up to the second floor which offered dim lighting, good jazz music and an overall romantic atmosphere. Even with an open floor plan (no ceiling-high partitions, w00t!) it felt both open and private, not an easy atmosphere to create.
We were sat at our table upon which we found cold towels and a small bowl of complimentary grilled salmon to nosh on.
Our first dish was the potato salad with smoked mackerel (VND130,000). The potatoes were cubed and covered with a generous amount of mayo and curry powder. While it had good flavor, I found it to be a bit overstated. Thankfully it was served on a bed of lettuce which really helped to cut the saltiness.
The menu is quite extensive with the usual BBQ dishes, shabu shabu and the like, but we came for the sushi, so let's get down to business.
To get an overview of what's on offer, we ordered the sushi/sashimi platter (VND750,000) that included salmon, tuna, octopus, sanma, mackerel, shrimp, and egg).
At this price point we had high expectations and we weren't disappointed. The presentation was beautiful, the fish was fresh and the rice perfectly seasoned, all the ingredients necessary for good sushi.
VAT is included in the prices which is a nice detail as well.
If you're looking for some quality sushi in a romantic and quiet atmosphere, definitely give Nhan Quan Sushi a try. While more expensive than the sushi chains on Saigon, it's worth the additional cost, especially since sushi is one cuisine you don't want to skimp on. Plus you can easily hop over to Bitexco to catch a movie, if you’re so inclined.
Nhan Quan Sushi. 62 Ngô Đức Kế, Bến Nghé, District 1.
This review was written independently with no influence from the restaurant or third parties. Nor the reviewer nor the photographer nor Saigoneer were paid for the review which was done totally based on the personal experience of the writer.
Saigoneer Reviews: Lubu
Lubu opened its doors and huge alfresco terrace last November, bringing to HCMC the Mediterranean spirit, decoration and, more importantly, its flavours.
From Spain to the Middle East, passing by France and Greece (I should be a poet), these countries’ flavours are captured in the dishes offered by Lubu. Even its architecture and decoration, a large pure white building with beautiful gardens, will remind you of the times in the Mediterranean.
Kylie, the Chef behind the delicious dishes, has over 20 years of experience, bringing love and passion to what she does, always using the best ingredients.
People go to Lubu to have a great time, either indoors or out. The staff is professional while casual and very friendly, all trained on how to best interact with customers, to how to serve food and pour wine.
The menu is great, offering many unusual but mouth-watering dishes. We started with some oysters which can be ordered by the dozen or half dozen, served with four varieties of dressing, with prices starting at VND180,000. The ones served with French vinaigrette were really fresh and brought great flavours from Mediterranean France.
We then shared the Mezze plate (VND300,000) - great presentation, variety and huge size. The boquerones en vinagre were great, full of flavour and spiced with a touch of chili. The olives are marinated at the restaurant and are fantastic but not to be outdone by the Haloumi cheese which is also made on the premises. As for the humus – wow – simply addictive! Stuffed vine leaves, fresh cheese with herbs, both delicious, complete the large mezze plate which is served with homemade bread.
For our main, we started with the seared swordfish served with tomato frito and bacon jam, potatoes and squash (VND280,000). What a dish - great presentation and exquisite flavours throughout. The chef must have used some kind of magic as she managed to prepare the swordfish with a crunchy outside with a very juicy inside, absolutely impeccable.
The second main was the lobster and chips (VND400,000), beer battered slipper lobster served with hand cut fries. Even if you are not into tempura style dishes, you will love this.
With hardly any space left, we could not say no to the passion fruit and white chocolate soufflé. Awesome, without being overly sweet, the flavour combination is out-of-this-world and a great way to finish the meal.
Whether customer go for breakfast, lunch, dinner, or simply to have a drink or a coffee, they will be welcomed by the simplicity and Mediterranean flavours of Lubu. The aim is for customers to have a great time in a cozy environment while eating flavourful, healthy food.
Jim and Kylie take great pride in offering as much homemade food as possible. You will not find coke or pepsi here as they even make their own cola! The menu has been designed to give the flexibility to either share or eat individually, and features regularly changing specials.
The wine list is, with its 48 options, is not huge, but more than enough as you would expect from Jim, who is a sommelier and the person behind Vino. The idea is to offer good wines at reasonable prices which pair well with the food. Wine prices start at VND400,000 by the bottle and VND90,000 by the glass.
Open from Tuesday to Sunday from 8.30 am until late, Lubu is the place to relax while enjoying fabulous food and wine, either inside or on its lovely garden.
Lubu, 79b Thao Dien, District 2. HCMC. T: 08 628 18 371.
The author of this review, Alfredo de la Casa, is a freelance reporter specialising in food, beverage and culture, who writes for several of the top lifestyle publications, and author of 9 books, including 4 related to Vietnam; he is a wine educator and runs wineinvietnam.com. He has written this review independently without influence from the restaurant or third parties. Neither he nor the photographer nor Saigoneer get paid for the review which is done totally based on the personal experience of the writer.
Saigoneer Reviews: ZanZBar
The new ZanZBar relocated to 19 Dong Khoi, in the heart of district one, barely five months ago. Management and staff have a one thing in mind for this bar-restaurant: great customer service.
Two different floors, and a private room with capacity for 50 people, ensure that different atmospheres co-exist.
The bar on the ground floor offers a more cosmopolitan environment, great selection of cocktails, drinks and very sophisticated tapas.
The stairs lead you to the main restaurant, with 14 tables offering great international cuisine in a relaxed environment.
ZanZBar is ideal for those who want a proper sit down meal, as well as for those looking to share tapas-style foods with friends and colleagues while enjoying a nice bottle of wine. All the tapas we tried were fabulous: “Pigs in blankets” (VND110,000) delicious sausages wrapped in bacon with chimichurri sauce, a great combination! Great presentation and a clear flavour profile.
The Peking duck pancakes (VND140,000) were awesome - a duet of flavours with a bright, homemade sauce.
The spicy chicken tostadas (VND120,000) were definitely my favourite - an absolutely amazing explosion of flavours, with a touch of spice. The chicken was prepared so nicely that melts in your mouth, highlighted by tropical, exotic flavours.
For presentation the winner was the soy lime scallop tapas with leeks (VND110,000), another great combination of flavours and refined taste.
Already with a full tummy, we decided to over do it, and try two more tapas: the menu has 14 different with prices ranging from VND90,000 to VND165,000.
Soon the prawns in bacon (VND130,000) arrived - a wonderful fusion of sea and land; crispy and savoury.
Finally we tried the beef skewers (VND110,000) – juicy and full of taste.
In addition to the great flavours, beautiful presentation and reasonable prices, the restaurant offers an extensive wine list covering over 200 different wines, with prices starting at VND400,000 per bottle, and 17 available by the glass.
What could be better? Although prices are reasonable considering the quality, bigger portions would definitely make a considerable difference.
ZanZBar is open from 7am to 1 am, seven days a week. From a calm atmosphere at breakfast to sophisticated evenings, it is an ideal place to enjoy wine and tapas while listening to alternative music, or drinking one of the fantastic cocktails available.
ZanZBar. 19 Dong Khoi, District 1. HCMC. T: 08 6291 3686.
Note: The author of this review, Alfredo de la Casa, is a freelance reporter specialising in food, beverage and culture, who writes for several of the top lifestyle publications, and author of 9 books, including 4 related to Vietnam; he is a wine educator and runs www.wineinvietnam.com. He has written this review independently with no influence from the restaurant or third parties. Neither he nor the photographer nor Saigoneer get paid for the review which is done totally based on the personal experience of the writer.